Remove the top of the steering wheel cover, and the wheel. Remove the black 'shroud' around the main console. You'll need to pull off the heater control knobs and pull the rear heater and wiper switches out of their holes. The heater selection switch will have to be disconnected along with the clock and the lighter socket (if you have one). The shroud pulls off to the left as memory serves.

Now remove the screws from the front of the dial cluster and pull the cluster forward. You need to unclip the cable umbilicle,and pull the speedo cable off. It might be very tight, but it does come off! You'll need to remove the cables from the heater controls. Mark each with a label so you know which is which.

Remove the screws from the main dash. You'll need a large cross head screwdriver to get the screws out and a small flat head screwdriver to get the covers off the screws. Pull the dash out of the most convenient door. Admire you're new 'Rally style' car!

Putting the XR2 dash in is pretty much reversal of taking out. There are only a few things to remember. The cables for the heater controls will be a pain to fit in the correct positions, the XR2 cables are longer. If you can, get these out of the donar car, but you can use the originals, it's just not so easy to fit. You'll need to make a new umbilicle cable for the XR2 dial cluster. I traced the wires on the back of the two clocks the night before, labelled all the connections on the umbilicle I'd cut from the donar XR2 and then splice that connector to my original umbilicle with multiblocks. (I have left both the  connectors on the umbilicle, incase I ever decide to change back to the 1.1 dash)

You'll have to make a connector for the heater control. I used the original connector from the XR2 and put spade connectors on each of the (five?) connectors. These were then pushed into the original connectors and wrapped with insulation tape. Unless you cut a hole in the heater itself (with the dash out, you can see where) the two middle air ducts will not work.

I also used the original  speedo dial as the XR2 dial is a lot more compact ( you'll only be using half of the clock!). The only other problem you'll have is with the rev counter. You'll need to pull a cable from the dash to the coil in the engine compartment. The cable needs to be spliced into the green one (top one). On the motorway, you'll probably only get the rev counter up as high as 4500 revs. So again, you'll only be using half the counter.

I can't speak for other's 's as mine is a  Van, but I'm not aware of any of the 'standard' models coming with the parking light indicator. So this is a 'redundant feature', though I'm sure it'd be possible to use it for something else. Finally to get that XR2 feel you'll need the clock. To get this in you *may* have to remove your rear view mirror and re-attach it lower down. Remove the original light and unclip the wires. With the XR2 clock you'll either have to run the clock cables up to the roof (too much trouble!) or (I think - it was a long time ago when I did this..) you put all of the clock wires except brown one to the red wire on the light. This will power the light and the clock. The only problem is that the clock will not dim when the ignition is off. Goodluck